Conference programme

Day 1

Friday 16 March 2018

9:00 - 9:45 Welcome and registration at Spier by Shaun Borstrock

9:45 Spier tour/event - Local communities – self-sufficiency

Bus to Idiom Vineyard

Lunch

14:00 – 17:30

Theme: Business Strategies (adverts/value)

  • Alyssa Dana Adomaitis
  • Charlotte Bik Bandlien
  • Louise Crewe

break

  • Yale students: groups 1, 2, 3 and 4
  • Michelle Raena Jogiastra
  • Kenneth Appiah – Nimo
  • Isabelle Mesquita

Conference Dinner at Idiom

Day 2

Saturday 17 March 2018

At Ruth Prowse School of Art

9:00 – 09:30 coffee and tea

09:30 - 11:00

  • Keynote speaker Jessica Helfand. Interviewed by Shaun Borstrock

11:00 – 11:15 break

11:15 – 11:45

  • Yale students: groups 5, 6, 7 and 8

11:45 – 13:30

Theme: Making (artisanal production/textiles/3D making)

  • Veronica Manlow
  • Fabian Faurholt Csaba
  • Yale students: groups 9, 10 and 11

13:30 – 14:30 lunch

14:30 – 17:00

Theme: Consumption (fashion, consumers, sustainability, case studies)

  • Nathaniel Weiner
  • Father Andrew O’Connor

15:30 - 15:45 break

  • Dicky Yangzom
  • Annamma Joy

Conference organisers

Dr Shaun Borstrock

Shaun’s remit in the School of Creative Arts includes the BA (Hons) Product Design, BA (Hons), BA (Hons) Architecture, Interior Architecture and Design, BSc Industrial Design, BA (Hons) Graphic Design and Illustration, BA (Hons) Fashion and BA (Hons) Fashion and Fashion Business.

He teaches on both undergraduate and postgraduate programmes in the School. He also supervises postgraduate research at Masters and PhD levels, including projects on branding, fashion, product and graphic design and illustration. He also works as an independent consultant to luxury brands and associations around the globe. They have included Unity PR, Ford, Finpro, The Cape Town Fashion Council, Thomas Pink, Fortnum and Mason, Dolce Gabbana, Gucci, The British Luxury Council and Alessandra Gradi, former Creative Director at Asprey. He is a regular Keynote speaker at government, corporate and education events around the world as an authority on delivering design education as well as a on subjects that include luxury branding and fashion, consumerism, branding and brand strategies. His success in the design industry, collaboration with global corporations and personal viewpoint make him a valued contributor to industry and education.

Shaun’s research evaluates notions of luxury that seem far removed from today’s world of excessive consumption. He considers and establishes how notions of luxury, designer, consumerism and manufacturing have played a role in determining the emergence of the ‘designer luxury’ market. Shaun sets out to explore how technology is changing the perception of the hand made and considers traditional hand production methods, hand stitching, and limited production and craft skills. In addition, mass production is considered in the context of how luxury brands have grown as a result of being able to supply historically hand crafted products en masse through technological innovation.

Dr Silvio Carta

Silvio Carta Ph.D. (2010, University of Cagliari, Italy), Doctor Europaeus, architect and researcher based in London. His main fields of interest is architectural design and design theory. His studies have focused on the understanding of the contemporary architecture, digital design, architectural criticism, research through making, and the analysis of the design process. He taught at the University of Cagliari (Italy), Willem de Kooning Academy (University of Rotterdam) and Delft University of Technology, Department of Public Building.  He is now senior lecturer at the University of Hertfordshire, where is investigating the potentialities of the digital fabrication for the contemporary architectural design with special focus on the interior space. His articles have appeared in A10, Mark, Frame, Bauwelt, Domus et al.. Since 2008 he is editor-at-large for C3-Korea and he has recently edited the monograph Urban Presences, Maurice Nio – Complete Works 2000–2011 (2010), and CEBRA, from Drawing to Building (2012). He is currently working on a series of forthcoming publications about the use of big data in the most recent digital designs.

The research project which Silvio carries on within the Digital Hack Lab investigates the use of a large set of data in the design process with the aim of analysis and to produce new types of spaces in the built environment. The research involves the observation of big-data driven projects and the production of a series of spatial prototypes. The research methodology involves analysis of case studies and production of spatial prototypes. The outcome of the analysis of case studies is the creation of knowledge about big-data driven projects to inform the design tests. The production of spatial prototypes allows for the investigation of the design process at its core. Large set of data are acquired externally or produced internally and translated into point clouds which inform the creation of space. The final outcomes of these tests are objects, rooms or hybrid spaces of variable scale.

Dr Veronica Manlow

Dr Veronica Manlow is an associate professor at Brooklyn College in the Koppelman School of Business, Department of Business Management. She wrote Designing Clothes: Culture and Organization of the Fashion Industry in 2007/2009. In 2014 she co-edited a book entitled Global Fashion Brands: Style, Luxury, History. She is an associate editor for the journal Fashion, Style and Popular Culture. She teaches fashion marketing and is the faculty advisor to the Fashion Marketing Society at Brooklyn College. Areas of interest are the organisation, culture, leadership and the creative process of fashion design and branding. Fashion is of interest to Veronica Manlow from a social and cultural perspective as it relates to both applied and theoretical questions concerning the individual, industry, modernity and the global economy.

She is currently doing research on the career of luxury salespersons and is considering the structural and interactional dynamics mediated by salespersons who must balance corporate directives, relationships with store management and the culture of the selling floor with their own notions of expertise and personal agency. She is teaches a course on the Business of Fashion at the Graduate Centre’s Masters of Liberal Studies program in Fashion Studies and has been invited to be a visiting faculty at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology where she will teach a course on luxury branding.

Alyssa Dana Adomaitis

IMPACT OF SEX IN LUXURY FASHION ADVERTISEMENTS ON BRAND CREDIBILITY, IMAGE AND PURCHASE

Dr. Alyssa Dana Adomaitis is full-time, tenure track faculty and Director of The Business and Technology of Fashion Program at the New York City College of Technology, City University of New York (CUNY). Previously, she was faculty in the Fashion Merchandising program in the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences at Texas State University San Marcos, Texas and California State Polytechnic University Pomona, California. She obtained her Ph.D. in 2002 from the University of Minnesota on full-scholarship in Social Psychology of Dress and Human Behaviour and obtained her MBA in Marketing from Long Island University/C.W. Post in Marketing in 1997.

Her research area of interest is in the social psychology of dress, beauty injustice, and luxury advertising.  She investigates people’s perception of dress, impression management, along with advertisings’ impact on social behaviour. Her latest publications were inclusive of lookism, VARK and educational pedagogy, and textiles and fast fashion, in which she and a colleague won an Innovative Teaching Award at the International Textiles and Apparel Association (ITAA). Her most recent manuscript submissions included topics of Postpartum Identity Management, Social Media and Body Dissatisfaction, and a review of literature on Sexual-objectification.

She has been employed with several different companies in the fashion industry holding positions that include a visual merchandiser at Saks Fifth Avenue New York, a trend analyst at The Fashion Service and as well as a personal assistant to the CEO of Sun Country Airlines.

Kenneth Appiah – Nimo

LUXURY FASHION IN SOUTH AFRICA: STRATEGIES TO ENHANCE THE VALUE OF LOCAL BRANDS

Mr Kenneth Appiah Nimo holds a BA Honours degree in Fashion Merchandising and a BA in Economics and Mathematics, he is presently a prospective Master of Arts Student affiliated with the University of Johannesburg. Kenneth believes in the business of fashion and its potential as a vehicle for job and wealth creation and the subsequent transformation of economies across Africa. He seeks to contribute to the development of the industry by impacting local brands with transformational knowledge acquired through research and practice. Kenneth is currently conducting a research on luxury fashion in Africa for publication as a book.

Charlotte Bik Bandlien

POST LUXURY

Charlotte Bik Bandlien is an Oslo-based anthropologist specialized in visual and material culture. Applying synthesized theoretical perspectives on art and design practices, her research centres around speculative aesthetics investigated through collaborative practice, curating and critique. Her work has been presented at Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, Parsons the New School for Design, Oxford University, Design History Society, Theaster Gates' Arts Incubator in Chicago, the material culture hub at University College London, American Anthropological Association and College Art Association - among others. Bandlien has previously held positions as strategic brand planner at Bates Advertising and researcher at the Norwegian National Institute for Consumer Research, and she was contributing editor to the Norwegian fashion journal Personae. She is currently assistant professor of theory and methodology at the Oslo National Academy of the Arts, Department of Design.

Dr Annette Condello

PROLONGING THE OFFCUTS: DRIES VAN NOTEN, SUSTAINABLE LUXURY AND MAKING-FASHION-GOOD

Dr Annette Condello, Discipline of Architecture, Curtin University, Australia

Annette Condello is a Senior Lecturer in the Discipline of Architecture and International Liaison Officer at the School of Design and the Built Environment, Curtin University in Perth, Australia. She obtained her Masters of Architecture (by research) and PhD from The University of Western Australia. Previously, she held a visiting postgraduate research fellowship at the National University of Mexico (UNAM). Annette has published The Architecture of Luxury (Routledge, 2014), co-edited a book with S. Lehmann entitled Sustainable Lina: Lina Bo Bardi’s Adaptive Reuse Projects (Springer Publishers, 2016), and edited Pier Luigi Nervi and Australia: Outback Modernism (Black Swan Press, 2017). Annette serves on the Editorial Advisory Board of Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption Journal (Routledge, Taylor & Francis). Most recent publication is “Opal Entrepreneurship: Indigenous Integration of Sustainable Luxury in Coober Pedy” in Sustainable Luxury, Entrepreneurship, and Innovation, eds. M. A. Gardetti and S. Muthu. (Springer, 2018).

Professor Louise Crewe

PRODUCING LUXURY FASHION: DISSOCIATION, BIO-COMMODIFICATION AND THE CREATION OF VALUE

I undertake research on fashion, consumption, retailing, exchange and value. My research has been funded by ESRC and the Leverhulme Trust. My current research interests include the following:

  • Gender divisions, intersectionality and ‘beyond the Motherhood Myth’
  • Retail gentrification and gender: sex shops and the urban.
  • Disposal, storage, possession, object value and the impossibility of erasure.
  • The architecture of fashion, world fashion cities, flagship stores & luxury.
  • Scholar activism, future fashion and The Fashion Revolution. This work addresses transparency in supply chains and the role of alternative more equitable commodity chains. I am a member of the UoN Rights Lab Beacon of Excellence working on the supply chain strand.
  • Retail interiors, flagship stores and space.
  • Fashion as embodied and emotional practice. This work focuses on the fashioned body as a site and space of creativity and anxiety.
  • The role of craft, quality and localisation in fashion production and consumption. The focus of this work is on transparency in fashion’s supply chains (Savile Row, Harris Tweed) and the enduring appeal of quality, bespoke garment production and consumption that slows down the pace of disposability and offers more enduring ways of doing fashion.
  • Second hand and alternative consumption (car boot sales, retro shops, charity shops).

Dr Fabian Faurholt Csaba

RETHINKING MEANINGS OF LUXURY THROUGH OBJECT BIOGRAPHIES

Fabian Faurholt Csaba is Associate Professor of Corporate Communication and Branding at the Department of Management, Society and Communication and affiliated with the Imagine… Creative industries research centre at Copenhagen Business School in Denmark. He received his PhD (Marketing and Consumer Theory, American Studies) from Southern Denmark University in 2000. He was Fulbright visiting doctoral candidate at University of Minnesota and assistant professor at Bilkent University in Ankara, Turkey. His has published in journals such as Culture Unbound and Advances in Consumer Research and volumes such as Handbook of Qualitative Research Methods in Marketing, Brand Culture and Imagining Marketing. His current research examines transformations in Danish fashion with particular emphasis on the experiences of fashion entrepreneurs and ‘ecosystems’ in which they exist. His research on luxury has dealt with definitional and theoretical issues and various luxury products and sectors, including luxury retailing, oriental carpets, jewellery and watches, and fur.

Michelle Raena Jogiastra

Dr Mersha Aftab

REDEFINING VALUE IN THE CHANGING LUXURY FASHION MARKET (CONSUMPTION & CONSUMER ATTITUDES)

Michelle Raena Jogiastra began as a graphic designer before following her lifelong passion for luxury fashion business and strategy. With an MA in Design Management, her creative background strengthens her sharp mind for marketing and strategy. She is currently working in Masari, a luxury fashion corporation in Indonesia, as a digital specialist for their extensive portfolio of luxury brands. Her research primarily focuses on luxury fashion using design management principles such as design thinking and value innovation to identify the issues of today’s fluctuating luxury business.

Michelle’s research evaluates luxury’s true values that have been lost in today’s world of fashion immediacy and instant gratification. She explores the topic of experiential luxury and goes beyond to pinpoint what experience can add value to today’s market. In addition to luxury value, Michelle’s research also evaluates the importance of digital in the luxury market and how designers and corporations should look at digital as a means to even better understand and bring luxury experiences to the customer and further add value to the brand. She believes that luxury and convenience should no longer be mutually exclusive and that digital can bring a convenience factor without losing brand value.

Professor Annamma Joy

A CASE STUDY OF SUSTAINABILITY IN THE LUXURY INDUSTRY: LESSONS FROM THE KERING GROUP, GUCCI AND MAGGIE’S ORGANICS

Dr. Annamma Joy is Professor of Marketing at the University of British Columbia, Kelowna campus. Her research interests are primarily in the area of consumer behaviour and branding with a special focus on sustainability, luxury, high fashion, and aesthetic consumption. She has been a visiting scholar at The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, China-Europe International Business School Shanghai, SDA Bocconi, Milan, and Aalto University in Helsinki, Finland among others.

After joining the faculty here at UBCO, she began research on wine consumption and wine marketing. She has published articles in prestigious consumer behaviour and marketing journals such as the Journal of Consumer Research, Journal of Consumer Psychology, Research in Consumer Behaviour, International Journal of Research in Marketing, Journal of Cross-cultural Psychology, Journal of Economic Psychology, Consumption, Markets and Culture. Dr. Joy has won several awards for her articles published in journals in addition to videos she helped produce.

Isabelle Mesquita

CIRCULAR FASHION: UPCYCLING AND RECYCLING AS SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGIES IN THE LUXURY MARKET

Father Andrew More O'Connor

CRAFT AND THE HANDMADE

Father Andrew attributes his recognition in the world of luxury fashion not only as an unexpected success but as “an act of God.” In 2009 when the actress Cameron Diaz wore a pair of shorts from Goods of Conscience on the cover of Vogue, Anna Wintour referred to the shorts as her personal favourite. Father Andrew founded the not for profit Goods of Conscience in 2005 as a parish based workshop or benefice. A small line of women’s and menswear is made to order on the Lower East Side from “social fabric” which is grown and processed in Chicacao, Guatemala from indigenous cotton using sustainable methods.  It is handwoven and made into what Father Andrew describes as garments “cut for movement and poise” and “meant for a conscientious life.” Father Andrew believes that trade can fit into a “cycle of charity” and believes that fashion can promote social good. He describes the mission of Goods of Conscience as “creating solidarity through craft — Mayan weaving and rare cotton meets considered design.”

Nathaniel Weiner

UNEXPECTED LUXURY IN ONLINE MENSWEAR CULTURE: THE UNINTENTIONAL LUXURY AND SUSTAINABILITY OF MILITARIA, RAW DENIM AND STREETWEAR.

Nathaniel Weiner is a lecturer in Critical and Contextual Studies at the University of Hertfordshire. Nathaniel received his MA in Media & Communications from Goldsmiths, University of London, where his research looked at online manifestations of the contemporary Mod subculture. He is a PhD candidate in York University & Ryerson University’s joint PhD program in Communication and Culture.  His doctoral research project, The Not-so-secret Vice: Fashion, Consumption and Masculinity in Online Menswear Communities used qualitative interviews and online ethnography to investigate the intersections of masculinity and consumer culture within online menswear communities.  Nathaniel has published in Catwalk: The Journal of Fashion, Beauty and Style, The European Journal of Cultural Studies, Men and Masculinities and Punk & Post-Punk.

Dicky Yangzom

WHEN OLD IS THE NEW: THE SECOND LIFE OF FASHION

Dicky Yangzom is a PhD candidate in Sociology at Yale University. Her current research on consumer motivations of second-hand clothing in New York City intersects cultural sociology, economic sociology, and material culture. Dicky holds an MA in Fashion Studies from The CUNY Graduate Center, B.S. in International Trade and Marketing for the Fashion Industries with a concentration in Asia Studies, and an A.A.S. in Fashion Design from The Fashion Institute of Technology. Dicky currently teaches in The CUNY City Tech's program on the Business and Technology of Fashion.