Conference Programme

09:00 - 09:10 Welcome - Shaun Borstrock and Veronica Manlow

09:10 - 10:00 - Keynote - In Conversation with… Maria Grachvogel

Theme 1: Craft and Design

10:00 – 10:20 - Yeseung Lee, Royal College of Art, London, “The Authentic Surface: Making Garments, Selves and Others”

10:20 – 10:40 Thomai Serdari, New York University, Leonard N. Stern School of Business, “Mind and Hands: The 'Ultimate Maker' and the Pursuit of Luxury"

10.40 – 11.00 Coffee / Tea Break

Theme 2: Cultural Capital, Work and Production

11:00 -11:20 - Nigel Lezama, Brock University, Canada, "Beau Brummell, The Original B-Boy? Luxury’s Subversive Signified"

11:20 – 11:40 – Jessica Clark, Brock University, Canada, “Laboring for Luxury: Female Workers in London’s Early Beauty Industry”

Theme 3: Sustainability

11:40 – 12:00 Sue Thomas, Herriot-Watt University, Scotland, “Peace of Mind: The Quintessential Luxury”

12:00 – 12:20 Fabian Faurholt Csaba and Else Skjold, Copenhagen Business School and Design School Kolding, “Fur and Sustainability: Oxymoron or Key to Deeper Luxury?”

Theme 4: The Luxury Retail Environment

12:20 – 12:40 Robert Reid, International University of Monaco, "Democratization of Luxury within the Brand Hierarchy: Perceptions of a Luxury Fashion Brand and Implications for the Design of Space”

12:40 – 13:00 Nessa Adams, Regent’s University, London, “Luxury Retail: Exploring the Creation of a Luxurious Experience”

13:00 – 14:00 Lunch

14:00 – 14:30 The Luxury Retail Environment, Selling Luxury, Panel 1:

  • Chair - Veronica Manlow, Brooklyn College
  • David Loranger, Philadelphia University (formerly of Bergdorf Goodman)
  • Yussef El Amir, Tailored Clothing Specialist, Bergdorf Goodman
  • Christopher Ferree, Lanvin Brand Manager, Bergdorf Goodman (discussing Bergdorf Goodman)

14:30 – 15:00 The Luxury Retail Environment, Selling Luxury, Panel 2:

  • Chair - Veronica Manlow, Brooklyn College
  • Travis Haglin, General Manager for Burberry (discussing Ralph Lauren)
  • Louis-Felix Communeau, Key Account Supervisor for Montblanc Africa, Middle-East & India (discussing Louis Vuitton)

Theme 5: Contemporary Notions of Luxury

15:00 – 15:20 John Armitage and Joanne Roberts, Winchester Luxury Research Group, “Critical Luxury Studies: Art, Design, Media”

15:20 – 16:00 – Joanne Roberts and John Armitage, Winchester Luxury Research Group, “Knowing Luxury”

16:00 - 16:20 Coffee and Tea Break

Theme 5: Contemporary Notions of Luxury cont…

16:20 – 16:40 Annamari Vänskä, University of Turku, Finland, "Pets and Luxury Brand Extension"

Theme 6: Technology

16:40 – 17:00 Ellen Anders, Independent Researcher, “Luxury Goods and Gadgets”

17:00 – 17:20 Federica Carlotto, Regent’s University, London, “Digital Perspectives on Luxury, Conspicuous Products, and Globalized Business Practices"

17:20 - 17:40 Stéphane Houy-Towner, Independent Researcher, Dernier Cri: Continuity and Convergence in Technology and Luxury

17:40 – 17:50 Shaun Borstrock, University of Hertfordshire, “Digital Customisation and Luxury”

17:50 - 18:40 In Conversation – The Future of Luxury - Industry Panel

  • Chair, Jacqui Jenkins, Dean of Graduate Studies, LIM
  • Father Andrew More O’Connor - Goods of Conscience
  • Patrick Mathieu - PATRICK MATHIEU Recherche & Conseil
  • Philippe Soussand - SOUSSAND ASSOCIATES, LLC
  • Tom Chin – Senior Managing Director, consulting and analytics at TAG
  • Maria Grachvogel - Designer

Industry panel profiles

Jacqueline M. Jenkins

Jacqueline is the Dean of Graduate Studies for LIM College. Jacqueline leads the development and execution of the College’s graduate-level programs. These programs include the MBA and the Master of Professional Studies (MPS) programs in Fashion Merchandising & Retail Management, Fashion Marketing, Visual Merchandising, and Global Fashion Supply Chain Management.

Jacqueline was the Program Executive for the University of Pennsylvania Wharton Small Business Development Center.  Prior to joining Wharton, Jacqueline was the COO for Milligan & Co., a regional accounting firm.

In 2000, Jacqueline founded Add Value Day 1, an advisory business. The firm developed business strategies and raised capital for early-stage companies. Jacqueline also held corporate finance and sourcing positions with Ann Taylor, Inc. Jacqueline began her career with the First National Bank of Boston. Jacqueline held the following board appointments: Pennsylvania Private Investors Group (investment fund), the Ben Franklin Technology Partners Enterprise Growth Fund (micro-loan program); and the Philadelphia 100 (business conference).

Jacqueline was a Philadelphia Business Journal Forty Under Forty honoree. Jacqueline is also a Philadelphia Business Journal Women of Distinction honoree. She earned her B.A. in economics from Spelman College and her MBA in finance from the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania.

Father Andrew More O'Connor

Father Andrew attributes his recognition in the world of luxury fashion not only as an unexpected success but as “an act of God.” In 2009 when the actress Cameron Diaz wore a pair of shorts from Goods of Conscience on the cover of Vogue, Anna Wintour referred to the shorts as her personal favorite.”

Father Andrew founded the not for profit Goods of Conscience in 2005 as a parish based workshop or benefice. A small line of women’s and menswear is made to order on the Lower East Side from “social fabric” which is grown and processed in Chicacao, Guatemala from indigenous cotton using sustainable methods. It is handwoven and made into what Father Andrew describes as garments “cut for movement and poise” and “meant for a conscientious life.”

Father Andrew believes that trade can fit into a “cycle of charity” and believes that fashion can promote social good. He describes the mission of Goods of Conscience as “creating solidarity through craft — Mayan weaving and rare cotton meets considered design.”

Patrick Mathieu

PATRICK MATHIEU Recherche & Conseil was created in Paris in 1999 and has 12 employees. It operates in the French and English language with worldwide clients in luxury and other sectors (finance, FMCG, services, robotics, building industry, telecom).

Patrick spends a considerable amount of his time researching and developing breakthrough methodologies to help brands characterize and value their singularity. He has recently published a book entitled "L’Imaginaire du Luxe" (2015) (co-authored with Frédéric Monneyron) in which he discusses his method of research in luxury consulting.

Philippe Soussand

Philippe Soussand established his consulting firm, SOUSSAND ASSOCIATES, LLC in 2002. Most of his clients belong to the fashion and luxury goods industry. They are based in the USA or Latin America as well as in Europe or Asia. They come to Philippe and his team to improve their businesses in the USA or in Latin America and at times to review their worldwide approach to an important issue.

His projects range from defining a market strategy to reviewing a subsidiary’s operations (Retail operations, design team and organization, administrative and marketing team).

Some of his clients are owners of brands who use Philippe's background to help improve their growth strategy and organizations or firms who need an understanding of brands to improve their business such as investors in the fashion and luxury goods industries or mall developers. Philippe also advises a number of designers in their contract negotiations.

Among his clients, you will find international companies such as: Aquascutum, Bally, Burberry, Cole Haan, Corneliani, Fendi, Dior, Jaeger, Juicy Couture, MCM, Ralph Lauren or more regional companies such as Agraria (USA), Iguatemi Shopping Centers (Brazil), Grupo Wisa (Panama), Hahn Global ( Korea) , Track & Field (Brazil), Jacqueline Schnabel (USA), Tane  ( Mexico),Theo Fennell ( UK), Halcyon Days ( UK ), Vakko ( Turkey) , Yliana Yepez ( USA).

Philippe's work has involved him with mostly ready to wear, leather goods accessories (shoes and handbags) as well as jewellery.
Prior to starting his consulting firm, Philippe had held for 11 years senior executive positions with LVMH, Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton. At LVMH, Philippe served as CFO of both Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton for North America, President of Louis Vuitton for Latin America, and President of Christian Lacroix, Loewe and Kenzo for the Americas. In this capacity, Philippe has developed financial, marketing organizations as well as retail networks in many parts of the world.

Previously Philippe served as Treasurer of the United Nations Development Programme. Philippe holds an MBA from The University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School and graduated from ESCP EUROPE. Philippe is also on the Advisory Board of Mad Network, a luxury retail consulting leader based in Paris.

Tom Chin

Tom Chin is the Senior Managing Director of the consulting and analytics group at TAG. Tom has over fifteen years of experience working with consumer companies. Prior to joining TAG, Tom worked in the corporate finance groups of Bear Stearns, J.P. Morgan, and Alex. Brown. He has executed numerous merger and acquisition and financing transactions, primarily for retail, apparel, and restaurant companies. His career also includes operational and private equity experience with Unilever, Transpac Capital, and Bradford Capital Partners.

Mr. Chin earned a BS in commerce from the University of Virginia and an MBA from the University of Chicago Booth School of Business. He holds the Series 7, 24, 63, and 65 licenses.

Maria Grachvogel

Maria thinks deeply about the cut and fit of her garments and this almost scientific functionality and strive for perfection has always remained the core of her brand. Originally mentored by the late Isabella Blow, Maria burst onto the catwalks in the autumn of 1995, where she held her first runway show on the London Fashion Week schedule, showcasing her Spring/Summer ‘96 collection.

By the year 2000, after a whirlwind five years as an established designer, Victoria Beckham headlined at the Autumn/Winter show which generated a huge international frenzy and interest in the brand. Since then, there has been no looking back and the brand continues to go from strength to strength, dressing a host of celebrity devotees along the way including the likes of; Angelina Jolie, Emma Thompson, Yasmin and Amber Le Bon, Florence Welch, Kelly Rowland and Jessie J to name but a few. In September 2001 Maria successfully opened her first flagship store on London’s Sloane Street.

Maria now runs a global fashion business, which has recently celebrated its 20th anniversary and while her collections have continually evolved over the past two decades her philosophy and desire to make real women feel sensational and unstoppable in her clothes remains the firm foundation for her business.